Two color Tunisian Potholders

I didn't invent them :) I just figured out how to make this kind of fabric. It's so cool! It looks like woven on one side and like knitted on the other. You can create so many fun color combinations. Mine are finished with one or two rows of simple crochet, but go ahead and find some nice edge patterns. A simple slip stitch edging looks great, too. I plan to make a warm scarf  with this technique when the summer is over, with acrylic or possibly wool.

You will need:

-small amount of worsted weight cotton yarn in two colors (let's call your yarns color A and color B)
-5.5 mm Tunisian hook, or 5.5 regular hook with secured end ( I used a wine cork)
-tapestry needle for weaving in ends of yarn

I work VERY loosely, so please experiment with hook sizes. We are aiming for nice, soft fabric that is neither too tight nor to loose. My potholders were made with a starting chain of 24 stitches and they measure 7.5 in x7.5 in. If you want them bigger-just add more chains :)

I don't really know how to write patterns in Tunisian stitch, so I will just describe  what I make as good as I can, with the aid of pictures.

Base sequence, color A:
Let's start with 24 chain stitches, color A.

Now we are going to work in bumps on the other side of our chain. It greatly diminishes the natural tendency of this fabric to curl. It also creates a neat edge for crocheting a border.

Finding the bumps 

Pull a loop through each bump and leave it on hook, drop color A, do not cut-24 color A loops on hook

working loops through the bumps

 Finished base sequence

Pattern sequence, color B:

With color B -yarn over, pull through 1 loop, * yarn over pull through 2 loops on hook*  repeat across -24 A vertical bars, one B loop on hook

Be careful not to tighten the first color A loop at left hand side of your work!

 Vertical bars are created from loops  

Starting in next vertical bar-pull loops through each vertical bar across, drop B, do not cut-24 A vertical bars, 24  B loops on hook

Finding your next vertical bar

Pulling a loop through it

This is the look of finished B sequence

Pattern sequence, color A  :(exactly like previous sequence, only with your other yarn)

With color A-yarn over, pull through 1 loop, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook*, repeat  across-24 B vertical bars, one A loop on hook

Starting in next vertical bar-pull loops through each vertical bar across, drop A, do not cut-24 B vertical bars, 24 A loops on hook

This is the look of finished A sequence

Repeat  the above sequences until your cloth is square, for me it's usually 20-22 rows.

When changing colors try to always bring a new yarn in front of the other-this will give the edge of your cloth a nice and  neat look, just like a row of chain stitches.

Finishing Sequence:

At this point you should have 24 loops of yarn on your hook, let's say it is your color A.
Drop A
With color B-yarn over, pull through 1 loop, *yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook*,  repeat across-24 A vertical bars, 1 B loop on hook

Now instead of pulling new loops we are going to bind off like this:
Starting in next vertical bar with color B-slip stitch in each vertical bar across (do it loosely, or you will be in trouble when crocheting the border)

Binding of with slip stitches

Single crochet border:

Cut A yarn, use B to crochet a single crochet border all around. Start at the end of your slip stitch row and go like this:
 Chain 2, single crochet in each edge stitch around, adding two chains at all corners. Finish with chain 1, slip stitch in beginning chain, fasten off, secure loose ends of yarn.
If lower edge of your cloth is curling too much - block it lightly and give it some time. It will became flatter.

Those were made with variegated and solid

"Woven" look at the right side

"Purl" stitch look at the wrong side

And now Lawrence is helping in the kitchen :)